The elephant never forgets, but the staff did

I enjoyed a weekend stay with family at the Park House Hotel, just off Eyre Square, Galway, now an annual haunt for a restful weekend break. I love the 'Park'. It's unashamedly old-world and family-orientated. The unchanged decor has a comforting and traditional feel, and the location means we can park up and walk to our favourite amenities. Its crowning glory is its many staff, long-term employees and impeccably trained and attentive.

Not one to change habits lightly, we got wind of a new hotel stirring the hospitality sector in the city centre. A striking new jewel has emerged in Galway's crown with the opening of The Dean. This stylish lodging offers a riotously colourful contrast to the understated local aesthetics of Galway's more established hotels. 

While sensibly less opulent than its trendsetting Dublin counterpart, The Dean still pampers guests with thoughtful touches like Smeg fridges, Marshall speakers, and Nespresso makers in rooms. The suites up the ante with Rega turntables and Martin guitars for musically inclined travellers. 

Beyond the rooms, public spaces provide a lively social hub with a lobby cafe, hip comfort food eatery Elephant and Castle, and the crown jewel - a rooftop restaurant called Sophie's. This airy dining room and terrace float above Galway, providing unparalleled panoramic views along with breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks.

So, on this particular weekend, my wife, son and I ventured into the ever-bustling heart of Galway City, appetites primed for a festive birthday dinner. We were excited about sampling the delights of the Elephant and Castle, so we booked their trendy industrial-chic interior to celebrate my annual goodbye to my fast-fading youth.

We arrived to find a smartly coiffed hostess who welcomed us with encouraging enthusiasm. First impressions were more than favourable. The bar and restaurant are stunning, and the ambience is sophisticated and cosmopolitan while embracing a relaxed cosiness.

As we perused the menu of pub fare 'elevated' with nouvelle flair, the young lady serving us projected an air of capability before disappearing without return for an extended period. There were plenty of youthful staff, all seemingly busy with every distraction but the customers. It's a trend, I lament, the absence of good waiting staff filled by seasonal and part-timers who need polishing before being set on unsuspecting diners. 

Dining out has become a game of Russian roulette, with the odds stacked against being waited on by staff versed in basic waiting etiquette. Low wages and high turnover have depleted the ranks of competent servers, once considered the backbone of the service industry. But our waitress struck me as a promising protégé. If this Elephant could nurture her potential, perhaps it could trample the trend of apathetic service.

We ordered our drinks and the signature burger for all, lured by the menu's descriptions. Our server assured us these were their pièce de résistance, prepared to perfection every time. Our bottle of wine arrived swiftly, and our orders were placed.

Twenty minutes later, a period void of any reassuring check by a considerate waiter, there was no sign of food, so I flagged down our server. Profusely apologetic, she promised to hurry the order along. My wife shot me a knowing look, and our son threw me a sympathetic smile as we waited, ever patient, to be fed.

At long last, a single dish made a grand entrance, earning initial thumbs up for its artful stacking and vibrant presentation. But there was only one dish; the remainder of the order still needed to be fulfilled. My wife received her order, and the two other charges were forgotten, so we had to sit for 20 more minutes while the remainder was prepared.

My wife, to all purposes, dined alone, and awkwardly; nobody enjoys eating alone as the remainder of the party sits in hungry expectation. Another 20 minutes elapsed. Another flagging of the waitress and more apologies before the dishes finally descended on our table. 

Exasperated, I expressed dissatisfaction; the evening was entirely ruined, and the experience was disappointing. The waitress flitted away, consulting with some staff at the counter. In the interim, we bit into the beef burgers, finding each one drier than the Serengeti during drought season. Even the most liberal dousing of sauce failed to renew the desiccated pates masquerading as the restaurant's crown jewels. After so long a wait, we again communicated our dissatisfaction to our server.

Here, the talent of our young staff member came shining through. She immediately apologised and offered to deduct the cost of an entire dish from our bill. We accepted her gracious response, thinking perhaps hospitality's future holds hope after all! Suppose this fledgling waitress can handle a complaint with such poise and generosity. In that case, she may well have the potential to be the next generation's trusted maitre d'.

But moments later, as we nibbled excellent chips and the insipid burger, the manager arrived. Astonishingly, he reversed the server's offer of deducting one meal. Instead, he proposed a free dessert - standard restaurant damage control but lacking the sincerity of his employee's initial reaction. It all seemed haphazard and unprofessional.

Though peeved by the manager's tone-deaf interference, I held my tongue. The dutiful server brought us three desserts. We finished quickly, eager to exit the premises. There would be no more orders tonight. We had indulged this Elephant long enough.

Let me trumpet loudly so all may hear - the fault lies not in the many untrained servers but the broken training system! An earnest young woman, motivated to please despite her greenness, should not see her instincts undermined by a superior deciding on a changed solution.

But here we are, and here they are, fumbling forward together. I don't condemn the Elephant, one more hospitality beast lumbering into an industry that undervalues grace and service. But I warn those who enter: temper your expectations, don't bite your tongue at disappointments, and leave a tip only if completely satisfied.

And to the hospitality industry, I advise carefully nurturing young talent. Foster in them a pride in pleasing others, an attention to detail, and a knack for smooth service. Invest in table training beyond taking orders and dumping food. Then this Elephant, and others like it, will grow into the kind of establishment any savvy patron would be eager to frequent.

Until then, I shall continue my enjoyment of established premises where drinks arrive briskly, dishes have flavour, and staff have empathy to recover any missteps, where service is a skilled craft and dining an art form. The Park House Hotel is one such jewel, and we will doubtless return again next year.

In reality, we must accept our dining, like life, will be by turns imperfect and dazzlingly satisfying. But I won't give up on the Elephant and Castle; it is filled with promise, and customers giving honest feedback can only elevate their level of service. I may return next year and afford the fledgling animal a second chance.