Westport has a perfect mix of history, culture and heritage

From the perspective of many outsiders looking in, be they Irish or international, Westport could be perceived as the proper port of entry to the real Ireland. It mightn’t be perceived yet to be ahead of other ports that take tourists to Ireland such as Dublin, Rosslare, Cork, Derry or Belfast, but this port of the west seems to be fast becoming a vital port of entry for visitors from everywhere.

If there was an ideal microcosm of the real Ireland then Westport and its hinterland seems to have it all, scenically, historically, socially, culturally, artistically and musically too. But before seeking samples of the scenic and social side or even a hint of nightlife in the town it’s important to delve into the background of the historic stately Westport House and grounds, already a fulcrum around which so much tourism revolves with a multi-million expansion now at full tilt for the future.

The iconic Westport House isn’t just another mansion from Ireland’s imperial past either. One of its most famous and formative owners was a leader beside Irish patriot Patrick Sarsfield who fought King William’s Crown forces during the sieges of Limerick in 1690 and ’91. Westport House’s Colonel John Browne is supposed to have faked his own death after fleeing back to Mayo and having to hide for a while to avoid being killed by the Protestant King’s army.

To paraphrase an old adage, history is usually written by the victors, and if so history can sometimes be guilty of gilding the lily by glorifying the winning generals only. But, in Westport House, there is physical evidence proudly on display for many decades of a brave even if defeated General Patrick Sarsfield, having presented a glowing citation and silver plate to local Colonel John Browne for heroism in a war lost to King William in 1691.

It could be prudent to think that this physical evidence from 1691, as well as Westport House’s occupation in the 1798 Rebellion with a flag named The Mayo Legion on display, could both be items of interest, plus other Irish traits, that may have helped save this stately home from being burned by Irish rebels during our many wars for independence.

Regarding the Mayo Legion flag, this came with the French General Humbert when his troops occupied the stately home for a time during the 1798 Rebellion. It was Mayo exiles among the French army who organised to have this one-off green flag hand-embroidered in France before setting sail to fight the English in the West in hopes of freeing Ireland.

Similar to all other artefacts, paintings and historical items, as well as antique furniture, fixtures and fittings, those have now been put into safe storage temporarily until the current massive renovations of this stately home are completed by new owners, the local entrepreneurial and innovative Hughes business family. They purchased the stately former home of Lord Altamont for its ongoing massive redevelopment in 2017. Westport House itself closed temporarily in September while vital renovations now take place but it is hoped to open quickly again once this major refurbishment of the inside of the building is complete.

But, before detailing some of the rather eccentric and sometimes almost unbelievably contradictory historical significances of Westport House, one needs to mention the connections between the Browne family and the late Princess Diana as well as with the famous Mayo Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley (Granuaile), who is said to have gone to London once to confront the formidable Queen Elizabeth I.

Tradition, but not official royal records, suggest that Granuaile met with Queen Elizabeth I at Greenwich Palace, but there is no written evidence of this. There is another painting there too which has other links to the British Royal family and it is an oil painting of the very pretty Lady Louisa Catherine Howe whose first husband was John Dennis Browne, 1st Marquis of Sligo and owner of the stately home. While the late Princess Diana was not a blood relation of the Brownes, she was a direct descendant of Louise’s sister Sophia Charlotte Howe through her only son Richard-William Penn Curzon-Howe whose daughter Lady Mary Anna Curzon was the paternal grandmother of the paternal grandmother of the late Princess Diana (whew!).

After John Denis Browne died, Lady Louisa Catherine married a British judge who had given a rather lenient sentence to her flamboyant playboy son Howe Peter Browne for attempting to smuggle some allegedly stolen Greek artefacts, via a military ship, into Ireland and the United Kingdom. A supposedly wild man in his youth who travelled a lot in the continent, it is understood that later on in life, Howe Peter Browne was supportive of many of his Mayo tenants and he also made major efforts to end slavery in the Caribbean. It seems too that there is another connection between the Browne family and the current British Royal family on King Charles’s side. (All tenuous enough double relationships for anyone to even try to unravel!).

Away from the historical aspects of the town, there are myriad other attractions, it’s the pubs, hotels, theatre and other entertainment attractions plus of course the topography of the hinterland with Croagh Patrick and Clew Bay (with its 365 islands?) that attract thousands of visitors to Westport each year. Another focal point for visitors to Westport is the river that meanders through the town centre with its pleasant walks and seating.

Among the many venues to the forefront in entertainment include Matt Molloy’s pub, owned by the famous musician with The Chieftains. Matt is still playing there and joining in on Trad sessions while he is hands-on too in many other aspects of his iconic pub. He regularly welcomes customers young and old for sessions and a chat. That includes some youngsters who were there with their parents in the middle of a day last August for food. Matt was delighted to hear that North Galway children Caoimhe and Donnacha Brady from Milltown (see photo) could play the violin and tin whistle respectively.

Of course, the nearby beautiful comfy customised Westport Town Hall Theatre has all sorts of shows, plays and music concerts including the very popular Folk singer Sean Keane and band every Wednesday night during July, August and part of September each year. Some of the pubs such as Bloomers seem like places more for a quiet chat and a drink, rather than for a session of music and dancing. Others such as Cu Chulainn’s Bar near Westport Railway Station are places to hear singers and musicians belting out the Irish ballads plus a plentiful supply of Irish rebel songs, all which can raise the roof and have hands clapping and toes tapping at any session.

Many of Westport’s other pubs and hotel lounges are places too where the young and the not-so-young can visit and sing along before going on to boogie (if they wish) into the early hours in late night venues such as Cosy Joes to name but one! Hotels there are aplenty, more than any other town of its size in the West, plus countless Airbnbs, guest houses, restaurants, coffee shops, souvenir shops, etc. Its architecturally impressive churches also stand tall in the Mayo skyline.

Apart from its nightlife for the adults, perhaps it’s playgrounds and activities for the children, its parks plus of course the scenic hinterland of lakes, sea and mountains, including Croagh Patrick standing tall above all, are to the fore in making Westport the port of call for holidaymakers from Ireland and overseas.

During past generations when Ireland was less geared towards tourism, those natural attractions were unmined treasures. But now with Ireland West Airport nearby, upgraded rail, bus and other road services, plus of course boats for sea travel, leisure and fishing in Clew Bay, this hitherto hidden gem of the West is fast becoming the real port of entry to Ireland for overseas visitors as well as being the West’s port of call for land lubbers from all over the island.

In the past, singer Frank McCaffrey extolled the beauties of his native Westport in song and now a new hit by young singer Stuart Moyles, titled Westport Town, does likewise. Even if the singer states that he is ‘coming home to Westport town’, it’s a home away from home for many away from the hustle and bustle of a busy world.

I see the light not far away

And I hear music all around

I’m getting close to Westport Town

So mother, won’t you make my bed?

I see the light not far ahead

I see the light, I’m coming round

I’m coming home to Westport Town.